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Heated Bed Instructions

For all subjects related to the building and use of "The Beast" 3D Printer.

Heated Bed Instructions

Postby dan » Thu Aug 25, 2016 6:22 pm

Hi Folks,

For those who cant wait until we release our commercial solution, we've come up with the following solution which we use in the office. I'll elaborate over the coming days and provide pictures where possible.

heatedbed.jpg
Heated Bed Wiring Diagram
heatedbed.jpg (53.9 KiB) Viewed 1004 times


This solution allows users to control the heatbed via software and the LCD controller. Main issue with this solution is that the heated bed can only go up to around 80 deg. If however you were to change the relay, power supply and heated bed to 24v, we envisage you should be able to go much hotter. If you do plan on going hotter than 80 deg C, we recommend placing 2x diagonal supports under the printer bed to support the weight of the heatedbed, otherwise, expect the glass to break under the heat and weight of the glass.

Ill take some photos and upload tomorrow.

Regards
Dan
dan
 
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Re: Heated Bed Instructions

Postby dan » Wed Aug 31, 2016 4:50 pm

WARNING - IF YOU USE OUR WAY OF DOING THIS WITH AN ATX POWER SUPPLY, ENSURE GROUPS OF YELLOW WIRES ARE TWISTED AND SOLDERED TOGETHER AND GROUPS OF BLACK WIRES ARE TWISTED AND SOLDERED TOGETHER. IF YOU DO NOT SOLDER THESE GROUP OF WIRES TOGETHER YOU WILL CREATE A FIRE HAZARD. DO NOT RISK SIMPLY CRIMPING THIS CONNECTION. SOLDER SOLDER SOLDER.

DSC_5118.JPG
We're using 2020 T-Slot for the frame and have attached it to the bed holders with M3 10mm screws and captive nuts in the t-slot.
DSC_5118.JPG (180.89 KiB) Viewed 972 times

DSC_5117.JPG
Picture of the Bed attached to the glass, notice wires coming out side.
DSC_5117.JPG (252.49 KiB) Viewed 972 times

DSC_5116.JPG
Picture of a switch, with pins connected to green and black wires.
DSC_5116.JPG (188.24 KiB) Viewed 972 times

DSC_5114.JPG
Power supply, ATX, we've coupled all the Yellow wire together and black wires together, SOLDERED them together (very important).
DSC_5114.JPG (258.98 KiB) Viewed 972 times

DSC_5112.JPG
Another Shot of Bed Frame
DSC_5112.JPG (229.55 KiB) Viewed 972 times

DSC_5111.JPG
View showing Bed Frame to support weight of Bed and prevent glass from cracking when hot
DSC_5111.JPG (284.78 KiB) Viewed 972 times
dan
 
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Re: Heated Bed Instructions

Postby sagacity » Thu Sep 01, 2016 3:47 am

What is the length of the 2020 t slots did you use?

I'm about ready to do this mod but I'm going a slightly different direction. I'm using a 450w heater that runs off AC current and using a Relay that uses dc to activate from the board and AC to power the pad.
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Re: Heated Bed Instructions

Postby dan » Thu Sep 01, 2016 2:53 pm

2x 565mm
1x 530mm
dan
 
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Re: Heated Bed Instructions

Postby Jsd » Fri Sep 02, 2016 7:54 am

Hi dan
Do you have an estimate when you will be selling a heated bed
Best regards
Jens siggert
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Re: Heated Bed Instructions

Postby dan » Wed Sep 21, 2016 11:38 pm

Best estimate, possible the next few weeks, more likely 1 month.
dan
 
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Re: Heated Bed Instructions

Postby Lytmup » Wed Oct 19, 2016 2:14 am

Where can I pick this up from?
Lytmup
 
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Re: Heated Bed Instructions

Postby dan » Mon Oct 24, 2016 12:04 pm

The heatbed we use is sourced from here. It is custom made, size 460x460mm. W ehave been using 12v version and can achieve max temperature of 100 degrees. Doing so without supporting the glass as mentioned above causes even boro glass to crack. 80 degrees is fine with Boro glass unsupported. Results are OK with ABS at this temperature. We have ordered 24v version of the same thing which should go hotter . We'll let you know as soon as more information is available.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Silicon ... 0.0.HWSI2N

or for custom :
https://alirubber.en.alibaba.com/produc ... aters.html

Regards
Dan

Update. Tested 500w 24v heatbed with 500w 24v power supply. Test was looking good until power supply went "bang" :( . Ordering new 750w power supply.
dan
 
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Re: Heated Bed Instructions

Postby kadmow » Mon Oct 24, 2016 9:10 pm

Hi Dan that is great News.

I have enclosed my Beast with a partial "box" made of polystyrene sheets and a tarp over the lot to keep the heat inside (mainly enclosing the space above the print bed, allowing the lower compartment with controllers and power supplies to be vented to ambient temp.

I have also placed foil reflective insulation insulation under the heated bed(on the underside of the aluminium supports, backed with a thing Polystyrene sheet for bulk insulation.

With this I am able to get the temp of the bed using the original 12V heated bed up to around 90 degrees (depending on ambient tamp of course.)

I am still running the heated bed open loop, as the temp hasn't become hot enough to cause elephant foot to any significant degree.

The whole enclosure is now running between 40 and 50 degrees I I am able to pring mid sized pieces (around 150mm diameter) with no warping, able to operate in rotating machinery models with reasonable accuracy..

It really is a better solution to use a heater with much more capacity than steady state requires and using the inbuilt control functions to control it to the required temp.

PS, a SSR is a much better option also for control that a Physical relay, as it allows much higher resolution control (even if still using bang-bang, as opposed to PID [Probably could get away with just a P-controller - with low levels of oscillation] or higher frequency state control)

The insualtion under the bed was the most effective in increasing the bed temp to satisfactory levels, I still haven't trued running it at a higher voltage (I have a 17v 600W PS on my RC battery charger which i could use if the need takes me, but i'm not in a hurry to destroy the heated bed.

I agree with your findings that 24 volt (or even 48-50V) is better for such a large bed.
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